HEART TO HEART
Journey deep into the heart of a nation and discover the beat within
WORDS MICHAEL WAYNE
HEART TO HEART
Journey deep into the heart of a nation and discover the beat within
WORDS MICHAEL WAYNE
Journey to the centre of Australia and learn about Country with heart.
The desert town of Alice Springs/Mparntwe, home to the Arrernte people, is as close to the heart of Australia as some people will ever get.
For me, it's the beginning of my journey along the Red Centre Way, a 1,135-kilometre loop that circles the inner core of the country. Far more than just a track through the outback, it's one of Australia's most immersive and iconic road trips. The bustle of Alice soon fades away and I'm enveloped by the solemn silence of the desert.
FOLLOW THE JOURNEY
Hover over a marker to find out the locations
FOLLOW THE JOURNEY
Click on a marker to find out the locations
NORTHERN TERRITORY
NORTHERN TERRITORY
NORTHERN TERRITORY
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Glen Helen Gorge is just one of the magnificent places to visit in the West MacDonnell Ranges on your way to Uluru.
CLAY COURT
An hour west of Mparntwe and I'm dwarfed by the towering walls of ochre that serve as the gateway to the centre. At any time of day, the West MacDonnell Ranges are scene stealers, and that's despite the scenic competition throughout the rest of West MacDonnell National Park/Tjoritja. The stark imagery is one thing, but there's a deeper meaning beneath the chasms and gorges. These pits were once used by the Arrernte people as a quarry for the ochre pigments so intrinsic in their art.
Simpsons Gap is 20 minutes from Alice Springs in West MacDonnell National Park/Tjoritja.
Take a swim or marvel at the towering walls of Ormiston Gorge.
It's this kind of enlightenment that gives archetypal scenes – Glen Helen Gorge, Simpsons Gap, Ormiston Gorge, the sandstone walls of Kings Canyon and the inscrutable silhouette of Uluru – a voice. Right now, barely audible over the engine's drone, it's a whisper.
But that's about to change.
Learn about bush medicine and food, art and crafts, and tools used by the Luritja and Pertame people of Central Australia.
CULTURE CLUB
As I continue south west, the voice grows louder. One of the strongest cultural touchstones along the Red Centre Way is at Karrke, on the edge of the Kings Canyon National Park/Watarrka. There's culture, and then there's the world's oldest continuous culture. The Aboriginal cultural experience that owners Christine Breaden and Peter Abbott offer at Karrke (western bowerbird) is a window into a land before time. Throughout the hour-long walk-and-talk, the land itself seems to raise its voice and speak of customs, traditions and history that’s as relevant today as it was 60,000 years ago. The cultural experience shared by the Luritja and Pertame/Southern Aranda people doesn’t simply illuminate their ways; it casts the entire region – and the road ahead – in a new light. Truly a not-to-be-missed experience, Karrke is the best way to understand this mysterious land.
From AU$69
Learn about culture in the spectacular landscape surrounding Kings Canyon.
The road to Uluru.
THE MONOLITH
The Lasseter Highway tears across the red desert; an asphalt rainbow with a phantom reef at one end and an icon at the other. Your eyes are scanning the horizon for it long before it appears, but as ready as you think you are, the truth is that nothing can prepare you for the first appearance of Uluru. It's my fourth time in the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, and the sight of the 348-metre high monolith is no less powerful. Even at a distance, the sight of Uluru on the skyline is at once intimidating and strangely comforting. It is Australia, after all, in every sense of the term.
Even at a distance, the sight of Uluru on the skyline is at once intimidating and strangely comforting. It is Australia, after all, in every sense of the term.
From every angle, Uluru is as magnificent as the last.
While it's true everyone connects with Uluru in their own way, Voyages and SEIT Outback Australia provide dozens of options to enhance the experience. At this point I'm already on the land of the Anangu people, and there's no shortage of ways to learn more about their culture and their connection with this place.
Gallery of Central Australia showcases the work of emerging Indigenous artists.
FOR ART’S SAKE
One of the newest opportunities to connect with Anangu culture can be found at the Gallery of Central Australia (GoCA), opposite the Desert Gardens Hotel. Here, the work of emerging Indigenous artists adds a greater significance to what you might think you know about Aboriginal art. Every piece tells a story, and not a word is wasted.
And once you've seen how it's done, it's time to try it for yourself. A perennial favourite, the Maruku Arts dot-painting experience allows guests to put it in writing under the guidance of a local Anangu artist. I'm not ashamed to admit my work lacks the panache of what I saw back at GoCA, but, as instructed, it's come from the soul.
Paint on Country with Maruku Arts.
Get to know stories on Country with an Anangu guide and Maruku Arts.
Learn about the art and culture of the Anangu people with Maruku Arts.
Maruku also goes beyond the studio and into the desert. With an Anangu guide and translator, we're taken along the Kuniya Walk to the caves of Uluru, the walls of which speak a thousand words. The story of Tjukurpa (Creation time) comes to life through ageless artworks etched in the caves eons ago, yet the messages are clearly understood even today. Once more, my artwork suffers by comparison.
Enjoy the wonders of Tali Wiru, a dining experience overlooking Uluru.
OUTBACK HOSPITALITY
From didgeridoo workshops to bush tucker courses to astronomy lessons, the Anangu people extend an invitation to virtually every aspect of their culture – from sand to stars – right here in their own backyard. Sitting beneath a truly staggering blanket of stars while our guide joins an insurmountable number of dots through ancient storytelling, I feel like the world's luckiest houseguest.
Tali Wiru serves a bush-inspired menu.
Get a full experience as you learn about and taste the region's bush foods.
And if you're saving room for dinner, you might find yourself with a whole lot more than you realise. Voyages’ Tali Wiru dining experience is the most extraordinary candlelit dinner for two. Except the candles are Bruce Munroe's world famous Field of Light and your partner is the inimitable Uluru. Accompanied by top drops from around the country, each of the meal's four courses showcases native flavours, herbs and spices. Anything from quandong to wallaby is likely to excite your palate, but even the eclectic menu takes a backseat to the one-of-a-kind ambience of the Southern Desert at night. Magical.
Drive to the heart of Australia via the Red Centre Way.
A GUIDED HISTORY
I return to the desert with SEIT Outback Australia to visit Patji, the homeland of the traditional Uluru family. SEIT offers a variety of ways to experience the National Park, including walking tours of the Valley of the Winds and Kata Tjuta, but today we’re jumping in a 4WD for a different perspective of Uluru. Our guide tells us the story of Paddy Uluru, an Anangu elder whose tireless persistence in the battle for land rights changed the course of Uluru and gave a voice to the land we're now zooming across.
SEIT Outback Australia Patji tour is one of a kind.
Journey to the homelands of the traditional Uluru family with SEIT Outback.
As we hurtle past the gigantic rock, I'm reminded of its chameleonic ability to change its colours. It feels as though every time I look up, it's a different shade. It also feels as though my perspective of Uluru has shifted just as frequently with each activity I've undertaken here. This truly is the heart of Australia, and the beat goes on.
Marvel at the magnificence of Uluru, the spiritual centre of Australia.
Later, I’m alone again on the road back to Alice. Only I’m not alone. With me are a thousand stories, a full-bodied chorus of voices from a desert that speaks as loudly as it has at any time over the past 60,000 years. Hear, hear.
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