ISLAND DREAMING
Framing Australia's mainland are dreamy islands that feel worlds away. Here, travellers can bask in the profound stories and life-changing cultural experiences of the world's oldest living cultures.
WORDS ANNA KANTILAFTAS AND MORGAN REARDON
Banubanu Beach Retreat on Bremer Island/Dhambaliya, Northern Territory.
The first time I sunk my feet into the marshmallow-soft sands of one of Australia's fringing islands is a moment I'll never forget. Etched into my memory, I can still smell the sub-tropical salty breeze as it brushed past my skin, already sun-kissed by the boat ride across crystal blue waters. The sound of the palm trees rustled to the songs of birds perched on nearby branches and the waves crashed against wet sands, fighting to engulf my toes.
Maybe it was the kick-in of island time instantly demanding my shoulders relax into a slump I rarely experience in daily life. Whatever it was, I knew, from the moment I stepped off the boat and onto the shores, there was something special about being atop an island that had remained largely untouched for many thousands of years before my arrival.
A view from above of Wadjemup/Rottnest Island, Western Australia.
I walked towards a small stream of smoke lifting from some bark on the sand. Around it, some men in ceremonial dress were fanning the cloud, and the crackling of the bark was getting louder upon my approach. The men started to dance to the beat of clapping sticks as their feet connected with the earth. My eyes were fixated on the beautiful welcome and the smoking ceremony. As I fanned the smoke toward my body, I allowed myself to fully immerse in my surrounds. I later sat in the sand next to one of the men who welcomed me to the island, overcome with gratitude. He spoke of culture, bush food and medicines, the wildlife and marine life that also share this land, and the island's lores and Creation story, each a reminder to protect the delicate and extraordinary ecosystem of the island. More than a decade later, this memory remains the catalyst for a profound respect and eagerness to learn from the Traditional Owners that have a connection to the land unlike any other, and a love for Australia's islands, each with its own unique landscape.
Glide along the pristine waters of the Solitary Islands Marine Park with a Traditional Owner.
CARING FOR COUNTRY
Solitary Islands Marine Park on the mid-north coast of New South Wales is the state's third largest marine protected area. Where the warm waters of the East Australian Current meet the cooler waters travelling from the south, the 71,000 hectare park is made up of estuaries, sandy beaches, and reefs that are home to hundreds of species of fish, hard coral and molluscs. Situated in Coffs Coast region, the Gumbaynggirr Nation has called this region home since the Dreaming and were traditionally known as the 'sharing people' thanks to the abundance of food and resources within the area.
Because of this rich culture, history, and ecosystem, caring for Country is a top priority. For Clark Webb, the Solitary Islands Marine Park is both his home, office and playground. It's here the Bundjalung man created Wajaana Yaam Gumbaynggirr Adventure Tours – an immersive experience that takes visitors on a guided tour of the watery paradise while learning about Gumbaynggirr language, culture, and the environment of the park.
An Aboriginal guide will share Gumbaynggirr stories and language whilst SUP'ing along the creek.
Get a unique view of Solitary Islands Marine Park from atop the water.
"My goal is to create empathy and respect for our culture among our guests and also a deeper love of Country," Clark explains. "My view is that if we can get people from all walks of life to begin seeing Country through an Indigenous lens, they'll develop a deeper connection to and love of Country, leading to better ecological practices."
CLICK PLAY TO LISTEN TO CLARK'S STORY
"My goal is to create empathy and respect for our culture among our guests and also a deeper love of Country."
On Wajaana Yaam Gumbaynggirr Adventure Tours, the magic of Solitary Islands Marine Park comes to light through teachings about culture during a kayak and paddle board adventure along the crystal clear waters of three culturally significant waterways; Red Rock, Moonee Creek and Coffs Creek. The tours, led by a coastal Custodian, unveil significant sites scattered throughout the marine park and offer the opportunity to truly connect with the stories and heart of the Country.
Bask in the peaceful moments of Rottnest Island/Wadjemup.
A CULTURAL AWAKENING
"Kaya noonooka, yaarkin niche ngullaka, Boodja Whadjuk Boodja," says Noongar Elder, Walter McGuire from Go Cultural Aboriginal Tours & Experiences. "Hello, welcome to my home country…Whadjuk Country." There's something magical about Rottnest Island/Wadjemup, Western Australia. Sparkling azure waters gently hug sugar-white sand while the buzzing soundtrack of the island's native wildlife sounds in the distance. It's these peaceful pinch-me moments in nature that Walter wants visitors to soak up when visiting the island.
Learn about the culture and history of the Noongar people with Go Cultural Aboriginal Tours & Experiences.
The ethos of Walter's tours is to connect people with Country by telling the first story of Noongar people through immersive experiences. Guided by a deep connection to their ancestors, culture and heritage, these authentic experiences stay with guests long after the tour ends. Wadjemup, which refers to the last resting place of the spirits, was once attached to the mainland of Western Australia, explains Walter. During the last ice age, when sea levels rose, the island was formed, and many of the oral histories of this time, thousands of years ago, have been passed down from generation to generation.
Learn about bush foods and medicines with Noongar Elder Walter McGuire.
Noongar Elder Walter McGuire performs a traditional smoking ceremony.
Go Cultural's 60-minute Wadjemup Extended Walking Tour begins with an Aboriginal Sand Ceremony. Guests release grains of sand into the water, cleansing the spirit and showing respect to the Traditional Owners that have gone before. A great way to learn from a Traditional Owner, Walter guides visitors around the island, revealing what life on Wadjemup was like for his ancestors, from pre-colonisation to its time as a penal colony. It's hard not to leave breathless when Walter shares Whadjuk Dreamtime stories connected to the island, Noongar language and traditional songs and music.
Immerse yourself in Yolŋu culture at Bremer Island Banubanu Beach Retreat.
UNWIND IN PARADISE
While many islands across Australia's shores are becoming popular destinations, there are approximately more than 8000 that remain secluded and untouched. And then there are others that are somewhere in between. Bremer Island/Dhambaliya is a 216 km² island within Yolŋu Homelands. Located just 15 minutes by plane (or via your own boat) from the shores of Nhulunbuy in East Arnhem Land, Northern Territory, the island is remote, untouched, and disconnected from service. Here, the best way to tell the time is to not worry about time at all. Instead, be guided by the sun and land. Nestled in the dunes is Banubanu Beach Retreat, an eco-sensitive Aboriginal-owned retreat, built in partnership with the Yolŋu people. This secluded getaway presents an opportunity for travellers to disconnect in order to reconnect.
Your jaw will drop as you gaze in wonder at the brilliant blue of Yolŋu sea country.
Exclusive accommodation is just one part of the story on this remote island. Home to 65 different birds, twitchers will delight in the opportunity to spot feathered friends gliding through the ocean breeze, while lucky guests may get to spot turtle hatchlings emerging from their nests and scurry to begin their journey out to sea. Four out of the six species of sea turtles return to the island each year to nest. But what sets a visit to Dhambaliya apart is the opportunity to learn about the remarkable Yolŋu culture.
All of the luxury eco-tents at Banubanu Beach Retreat are completely solar-powered.
Spend your days by the ocean, learning about the world’s oldest living culture.
All of the luxury eco-tents at Banubanu Beach Retreat are completely solar-powered.
Spend your days by the ocean, learning about the world’s oldest living culture.
Explore Nhulunbuy and several culturally significant coastal sites with a Yolŋu guide on the Gove Gululu day tour with Lirrwi Tourism, which can be organised through Banubanu Retreat. Throughout the day, stories of culture and history are shared as guests are guided through the region, visit the world-renowned Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre, learn about the unique art of the Yolŋu people, and men try their hand at spear-fishing and mud crabbing.
Learn ancient fishing techniques from the local Yolŋu people.
This is island life like you've never experienced before. As the marks of your footsteps in the sandy shores fade with the ocean tides, deep diving into the culture of these paradisiacal island escapes will leave an imprint you'll never forget.
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